Thelma and Louise

Asia for a lot of us is the ultimate frontier; my dream trip became a reality when I finally got the opportunity to visit Japan.

Long haul flight… killing time by chatting to other fellow travelers, and not been able to sleep because of the excitement.

I had window seat and was reading when I felt a faint touch of pink-red light, and when I turned to look out the window, there was a huge blood red circle in the sky: the rising sun!
What a marvelous sight! The legendary land was welcoming me.

I arrived at Narita Airport and felt very welcomed, and after the usual paperwork I was unleashed into Japan.

A short ride towards Tokyo shows you the amazing combination of mesmerizing modern architecture mixed with traditional temples. There are shrines everywhere, and the omnipresent symbolism of the Shinto makes you feel transported to an ethereal land. It really looked like in those anime films I like so much.

The Roppongi district is a must-see. Al the trendy structures: embassies and other important buildings showing off their architectural beauty.
I was told that Roppongi means "six trees" because there were six very old and large zelkova trees used to mark the area.

I stayed with families and I would always recommend to do so.
You get a good taste of life in the country you visit.
I love the idea of the futon, very practical, specially in a country like Japan where space is the real luxury.

In the morning you get into the shower in order of importance in the house hold and then soak in the family bath, is quite an interesting experience.

Getting around in the subway and elevated train is the best way, first because I love people watching and the sound of Japanese language. Second because is cheap and fast. But be warned: the language barrier is ever so evident when you choose this way of travel: there I was drawing the name of the metro station to recognize the ideogram and being able to know where to go.

Here you don’t even have a known alphabet to rely on! I was illiterate. Hard fact.

I visited Shinjuku, the administrative heart of the capital.
It holds the busiest train station in the world (Shinjuku Station obviously called) and the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, which is not only amazing but I was explained that all is automated, stores sunlight to light the building at night and all the communications are fibre optics.

If you walk in Tokyo, there will be no street, no corner that won’t attract your attention; it is really so different to the western world, even though we are seeing the same: buildings, streets, parks… I think is because the way is set, the environment, the urban design.

A walk on the wild side.
Harayoku or Fashion Street is where the most outrageous shops sell their creations and youngsters go -mostly on the evenings or on the Sundays- to parade their extreme looks.
Kids dress like cartoon characters, “lolitas” and “Goths”, or the musicians called “visual kei” who are dressed in more colours than a rainbow. Cosplays are fans of a movie or book who dress-up like his or her favourite character.

But this modernity was a little too much for me, so I redirected my steps into the Jindaiji temple. I learned that it was constructed in 733 and is the oldest in the Tokyo area. The place was a fantastic relief after the fashion street; peaceful and quiet with a beauty that seemed that every bush and tree was designed and set in a particular manner to make the area pristine.
Around it I found food stands and waterwheels and in a separate building there is a statue a Buddha from the same era. The gardens of the temple are the Jindai Botanical Gardens and is divided into areas which feature specific plants such as plum and cherry blossom trees; I was surprised to find there is a English-style rose garden too.

I love art and to be honest everywhere I go, I pretty much do museums, galleries and historic places, sorry girls if I cant give you information on more pleasurable and exiting pursuits.
Japanese art is mesmerizing, especially because of its symbolism, everything has a meaning and all is done with such delicate perfection that for me, is a delight to see.

In a lot of places you can see the famous Torii gates. These frames are set to mark the limits between the human and the ethereal world.
One of the biggest ones I have ever seen was welcoming me when I visited the Meiji Shrine. Please don’t miss it.
The shrine is not old, its construction was completed by 1926 and what we see now is a restoration because the original building did not survive the air raids of the Second World War II. It is surrounded by a huge forest of more that 150 acres and the beautiful story is that every single tree was donated by people from all parts of Japan so it truly is a shine of the people. Inside it holds a museum with things that belong to the Emperor and Empress. There is also a Memorial Picture Gallery of the Meiji and a Memorial Hall.

For being such a huge city, it really was a nice surprise to see that it is clean, air is clear and the sidewalks spotless. I am sure I could have licked them without getting ill!

I have this “tradition” to go to the highest point of the place I visit and see the sunset, from the Empire State Building, to the Eiffel tower, and this was not going to be an exception, and indeed was one of the highlights of the trip: the views from the Tokyo Tower were breathtaking,

The funny happening.
I was taking photographs here and there when suddenly, I realized that some locals were taking pictures of me! I fall into account it was because of my hair (I used to have my hair really short like the singer Snead O’Connor) that caused the commotion.
After two weeks I went out to Yokohama, which you can see in a day. It started like the port near to Tokyo, just to be engulfed by the city and practically is part of the capital now.

It is absolutely fantastic, ultra-modern and very typical.
I loved the refreshing feel of the breeze and smells of the sea while getting lost in its streets, the must-see visit is to The Yokohama Landmark Tower, the tallest building in Japan, and is a posh 5 star hotel but it also has shops, restaurants, clinics, and offices; what you need to do is climb (there are elevators, of course, don’t panic!) to the 69th floor where there is an observatory, Sky Garden, from I was told I could see Mount Fuji if the day was clear enough, although I was not that lucky.

Right next to it you find the Yokohama Museum of Art. The building looks like a traditional Japanese building turn into modern, all white. It has paintings form Cézanne, Dali and other famous western artists, and also great pieces from Japanese artists that I did not know before my visit, you learn something everyday!

After a quick day visit I set off to Kamakura.
This is a very small place but is so traditional, so pretty!
The famous Buddha is a colossal figure and is amazing to see how revered it is.
There is a temple in which there is a small figure that everyone seemed to be rubbing, after asking, I was told that if you have a scar or illness, you rub the Buddha in that same place where you have the problem so you can get cured.

Off again, and I passed though the island of Enoshima where the windsurfers get their kicks, and then off to Lake Ashi that springs from a crater, Mt Fuji is nearby and there is a chain of mountains and live volcanoes around it that create its numerous hot springs. The lake has boats that range form the ultra modern to some replicas of pirate ships.

Here you break the rule of staying with families and stay in a Ryokan.
This will be the experience of your life. The traditional bathhouse / hotel was of traditional style and from the moment you set foot in the place, you already feel relaxed. People welcome you with great respect and all is done in an almost ritualistic way. The room was traditional, with a nice table and cushion to sit down. The loo was traditional too (a hole in the ground where you have to squat) and a nice kimono type of robe is given to you, then you go to the baths. You put the robe and belongings in a basket (check which one is yours because they have no tags or numbers!) and go to the shower area. Baths are separated , so don’t worry if you are going to be naked around it will only be women. There are separate ryokans for families. There are tiny stools in which you sit and take a shower to clean your body before getting into the hot tub. There is soap and sponges and anything you need. After cleaning yourself, you go to the hot tub that was made from the hot water naturally flowing form the earth and mixing into the right temperature with the clear water from the mountain in a pool shaped out from the rock formations… now that is what I call a bath!
People put a small towel with fresh water on the heads, that might look silly to us but it makes a difference as it cools down your head and stops you form fainting. The water is indeed really hot!
After soaking for a while, you can go to dry and get ready for dinner.
Dinner is set in a beautiful manner and comprises between 9 or 12 courses! So ensure to starve yourself that day. After dinner a lady will come and push the table aside and prepare your bed. They are at floor level, but super cozy! I slept so well…
If you want to stay there you can see it and book it here:
http://japan-easy.com/japan-travel/hotel-guide/japan-hotels/hakone/goratensui-hakone.html

Next morning, I set off early to see Mt Fuji. It is an amazing sight. There are several points in the roads where you can stop to admire it. There is one that is very busy and you will see people taking out their money… is because is the same point of view where they took the image for the bill!

In the same area, one of the best places to go is the Hakone open-air art museum.
Is a nice long pathway with different statues and art pieces that are placed in a sight-seeing walking route. You will see a variety of sculptures: from reproductions of renaissance masterpieces to modern and contemporary artists form all over the world.
http://www.hakone-oam.or.jp/english

Back to Tokyo and in a bus tour I went to see the Rainbow Bridge, that connects Tokyo with New Tokyo, a new area developed in land gained to the sea.
The bus trip takes you to Ginza too. This is the up-market district, with all the designer shops and top-notch restaurants. Of course all I did was window shopping because prizes are extortionate! But a good buy here is traditional Japanese jewellery made of pearl, I got a lovely necklace for a good price.
Here you can see the famous Kabuki Theatre.
There are two ways you can see it., depending on how much you like it:
Locals go to the Kabuki for all of the day. The play will last for 5 to 8 hrs and will stop for refreshments and a special traditional dinner.
The tourist way to do it is: they serve you a small dinner, give you an audio guide with an explanation of what is going on, and you sit there for less than 2 hours.
Is one of those things you really need to see. The music, the colours of the costumes, the mesmerizing way of performing (very slow and paced), it truly was one of the best nights of my life.

Next day I was due back and I bid farewell to this truly remarkable land.
If I have to choose one trip above all the rest I had ever done, this has to be it. I would go back in a flash, maybe with a healthier wallet!

Overall I would say is great if you are a woman travelling alone or with a group of girls. This country is ever so safe to travel, people are helpful if you ask help and they let you be if you so wish too. There is no pressure for you to see things or buy things; this is indeed the most polite place I had ever been.

Food is amazing, I tried all I could and since then I even do some of it at home.
There is a sweet bean soup (oshiruko) with a big dollop of glutinous rice (mochi) that I can’t live without now!
Some of the food is dipped in a raw egg before you eat it, it sounds awful but is delicious, please do clean your mind of preconceptions and enjoy the delicacies as they set them in your plate, like a baby that is trying things for the first time with out having anything to compare to. That is the secret.
Japanese food is so much more than sushi, and even sushi tastes different to what you might have had back home.
I went to McDonalds (yes, I know what you’re thinking…!) but let me tell you it was quite an experience: I bet you had never eaten your bigmac with teriyaki sauce or see a fish hamburger in the menu!