Transport within Tunis includes a variety of options. The furthest corners of
the city should be accessible without any problem, if not by public
transport, then by taking a taxi, which is cheap by European standards.
Tunis’s medina is partly pedestrianized and can easily be explored on foot.
Travelling to seaside resorts close to the capital is also quite easy. The
best way of getting to them is by using the fast TGM train that stops near
the town centre.
Trams are probably the most convenient way of moving around Tunis. This
network, known as métro leger , runs down the middle of the
street and has green paintwork with distinctive white and blue stripes. The
city’s trams are efficient and not particularly expensive, though they can
be crowded, especially at peak times.
Five main lines run to various parts of Tunis. All except No. 5 pass through
the centre. Since many streets in central Tunis are one-way, the tram often
returns by a different route (usually along a parallel street). Tickets must
be purchased before boarding the tram and are available from the kiosks at
the entrance to each station. The standard fare is 380 millimes.
Line No. 1 runs from Tunis, Marine via Place Barcelone, to Bab Alleoua, at
the south end of the town. Bab Alleoua is the best stop for the southern bus
station.
Line No. 2 runs from Place de la République and heads north towards Ariana.
Line No. 3 runs from Place Barcelone, via Place de la République, to Ibn
Khaldoun.
Line No. 4 starts by Tunis Marine and runs westwards, through Place de la
République. This line is particularly convenient for the Bardo Museum
(Bardo) and the north station – Saadoun; alight at Bouchoucha.
Line No. 5 is an extension of line No. 3, and runs from Ibn Khaldoun to
El-Intilaka.
A tram – one of the best means of getting about in Tunis
Although Tunis’s buses are modern and in better condition than those in other
major towns of the country, travelling by them is not a particularly
pleasurable experience, particularly since they are often even more crowded
than the trams.
The bus number and the direction in which it is heading are usually written
in Arabic and placed at the rear of the bus by the entry door. The Latin
alphabet is used only on those buses serving the most popular tourist
destinations, such as the Bardo Museum or the airport. On these buses the
Latin number is displayed at the front.
There are three main stops in Tunis. These are Tunis Marine, situated close
to the TGM train stop at the end of Avenue Habib Bourguiba; the stop at
Place Barcelone near the railway station and the stop in Jardin Thameur,
near the Passage. Bus No. 3 begins at Tunis Marine and runs to the Bardo
Museum. Transport to the airport is provided by the No. 35 bus, which also
departs from the Tunis Marine stop.
Tickets are fairly cheap. costing about 380 millimes and are purchased on the
bus. Alternatively, a book of tickets is available from Tunis Marine bus
station.
Tunis’s yellow taxis are a cheap and efficient means of getting about. Many
locals use them and it can sometimes be hard to find a free cab for this
reason. All taxis are fitted with meters. In general, the drivers stick to
the meter, apart from journeys to the airport that start from bus stations
or the railway station. A trip from the town centre to the airport will cost
about 5 TD; a taxi to the Bardo Museum will cost about 3 TD. At night (from
9pm–5am) the prices can be slightly more. Always check that the meter has
been activated, though it is rare that a taxi driver will attempt to swindle
his customer.
Taxis can be hailed from the side of the road, just as they can in other
major cities. It is worth paying attention to the condition of the car,
however. Some of Tunis’s taxis are old and rather dilapidated. Most,
however, are new and well maintained. It is worthwhile holding out for a new
model, particularly if intending to travel a bit further, to Sidi Bou Saïd
or Carthage for instance.
“Collective Urban Taxis” are also now appearing on the streets of Tunis. They
are yellow with a distinctive blue stripe. Popular with locals, they may
also be used by visitors.
A typical Tunisian yellow taxi
Driving in Tunis is not a good idea. Unless there is no alternative, don’t
even consider it. Despite being wide, all the main streets of town get
congested. Tunis’s drivers show little respect for marked traffic lanes and
it often happens that a three-lane road suddenly becomes an impromptu
five-lane one. Police help or understanding cannot be counted on either.
Policemen only try to ease the traffic flow at the most congested junctions.
If stuck in traffic, pay particular attention to motorcycles and pedestrians
that often weave in and out of the stationary cars with little apparent
concern for their own safety.
Although Tunis’s drivers undoubtedly break many regulations, it is very rare
for them to break the speed limit. If attempting to drive in town, remember
that many streets are one-way, and getting to a destination may not be as
simple as it appears from the map. There may also be serious problems when
parking. Pay close attention to the paid parking zones, as there are severe
fines for not paying the required amount.
The centre of Tunis, like most towns in Tunisia, is fairly compact. At its
heart is the medina, much of which is closed to traffic. A stroll around the
medina can be a real pleasure and enables visitors to soak up the ancient
atmosphere at a leisurely pace. In parts of the medina where the streets are
relatively wide, visitors should be on the alert for scooters or delivery
vans, which can arrive at speed. Tunis’s Ville Nouvelle is also suitable for
exploring on foot. The only problem with this area is the heat in summer. To
avoid heat exhaustion, walk on the shady side of the street and carry a
bottle of mineral water. Anyone who feels tired should sit down in a café
and have a drink.
Outside Tunis, there is no sense in walking the large distances that separate
many of the towns from the tourist zones, unless it is to walk along the
seashore.
The quality of service provided by Tunisian guides varies tremendously. When
somebody offers to act as a guide for free, it is practically certain that
the person works for a carpet shop or a store selling some other kind of
merchandise. The trip will therefore end very quickly in one of the medina’s
markets. However, employing guides who work at archaeological sites, such as
Dougga or Bulla Regis, can be particularly useful if the details of the site
and its history are of particular interest.
An excellent way of exploring Tunis’s environs and the coast of Carthage is
by taking the TGM train that links the centre of Tunis with Carthage, Sidi
Bou Saïd and the main beaches. The train leaves from the end of Avenue
Bourguiba (Tunis Marine station). The journey to the final station (La
Marsa) takes about 35 minutes. The first station after crossing the causeway
is Le Bac. Confusingly, Aeroport, the sixth stop, has nothing to do with the
airport as TGM trains do not run there. Salammbô has a nice beach, while
Carthage Byrsa is the main stop for Carthage’s Museum and Byrsa Hill. Sidi Bou Saïd is an
excellent stopping-off point, as is La Marsa, which has the best beach in
the vicinity of Tunis.
The ticket costs about 600–800 millimes. Many people opt for the first-class
ticket, which is only slightly more expensive. The first train on a weekday
leaves before 4am, and the last runs about half past midnight (slightly
later at weekends). The departure times of the last trains should, however,
be checked at the station – in Tunis, Sidi Bou Saïd or La Marsa.