The two sections of Phi Phi Don, the larger of the two islands, are linked by a 1-km (1,100-yd) isthmus of sand. Here stands the island’s original Muslim fishing village, Ban Ton Sai. This area was badly damaged by the 2004 tsunami but extensive reconstruction work is ongoing. Since development began on Phi Phi Don following the arrival of the first visitors in the 1970s, the island has given itself up to tourism. However, there is still plenty of natural beauty to enjoy here. A pleasant one-hour coastal walk from Ban Ton Sai leads to Hat Yao (“long beach”), with tantalizing white sands, vibrant offshore marine life, and unhindered views of the soaring flanks of Phi Phi Ley, 4 km (2.5 miles) away.

It is also worth climbing the steep trails on Phi Phi Don’s two massifs, which afford wonderful vistas of the island. The eastern route is well marked and the least strenuous.

Superb coral beds at Hin Pae off Hat Yao, and at Ko Phai (“bamboo island”), to the northeast of Phi Phi Don, provide some of the best diving and snorkeling in Thailand.

To the north is Ban Laem Tong. This village’s sea gypsy population still survives on fish caught in the isolated coves of nearby Laem Tong.

Unlike Phi Phi Don, Phi Phi Ley remains uninhabited and unspoiled. Boats from Phi Phi Don bring visitors on day trips to see the paintings in Viking Cave. Another feature of the cave are the nests of the edible-nest swiftlet, which are used in bird’s-nest soup. Agile collectors climb rickety bamboo scaffolding to reach the nests, which are so valuable that the caves are protected by armed guards and staying overnight on the island is prohibited. There is excellent snorkeling at the coral reefs of Ao Maya.