The heart of Phuket town is the old Sino-Portuguese quarter with its spacious, if now rather run-down, colonial-style residences set in large grounds. Most date from the reigns of Rama IV and Rama V (1851–1910). Among the best examples are those used today as offices by the Standard Chartered Bank and Thai Airways on Ranong Road. Unfortunately, no one has yet seen fit to convert any of the old mansions into a museum, and none can be visited. Many of the commercial Chinese shop-houses are also dilapidated.

The owner of this hotel in the center of town has assembled a collection of Phuket artifacts and pictures that he now displays in the lobby and adjacent function rooms. Among the exhibits are models of tin mines, pictures of the town center in the 19th century, Chinese treasure chests, and weavers’ tables, all of which are imaginatively displayed.

The 24-hour wet market is a treat that assaults the senses. The market and adjacent lanes are full of colorful characters hawking condiments, dried herbs and spices, pungent pickled kapi  fish, squirming eels, and succulent durians.

On the top of this hill overlooking the town stands a statue of Khaw Sim Bee Na-Ranong (1857–1913), governor of Phuket for 12 years from 1901. He enjoyed considerable autonomy from Bangkok but is credited with bringing the island firmly under central rule, and also with importing the first rubber tree into Thailand.

This temple is where naga  devotees climb knife ladders during the Vegetarian Festival. The inner compound is devoted to a number of Chinese mythological gods, the most prominent being Siew, Hok, and Lok, who represent longevity, power, and happiness.

This large, Rattanakosin-style temple has finely carved doors. Its compound acts as a community center where monks play takraw  with the laity.

A steady flow of people visit this Chinese temple to shake numbered sticks from a canister dedicated to vegetarian god Kiu Wong In. Each number corresponds to a preprinted fate that, according to belief, the person will inherit.

Phuket’s most developed beach is the 3-km (2-mile) long Hat Patong. Once a quiet banana plantation, it is now almost a city by the sea. The area has a lively nightlife, with a vibrant mix of hotels, restaurants, discos, and bars. During the day there are many water activities, such as parasailing, waterskiing, diving, and deep-sea fishing.

Although Patong continues to expand, the beaches along the southern headland of Patong bay are far quieter. It is possible to ride to the cape on elephant back.

South of Patong, and almost as popular, are the beaches of Karon and Kata. Karon has one long stretch of sand lined with accommodations, and a second beach at tiny Karon Noi. Kata’s beaches, along the bays of Kata Yai and Kata Noi, are smaller and prettier, sheltered by rocky promontories. There are a number of good restaurants on the headland between Karon and Kata.

North of Patong, fringed by palm-covered headlands, lie the smaller beaches of Kamala, Surin, and Pansea. Hat Kamala is relatively undeveloped, with some Muslim fishermen’s houses and a few restaurants. Just to the south, however, is Phuket FantaSea , a huge Las Vegas-style cultural theme complex that hosts a spectacular live night-time stage show with music, dance, special effects and elephants.

Farther north from Hat Kamala, Hat Bang Tao offers a quiet, enchanting retreat, popular with families. Fronted by a few exclusive hotels, the beach is good for water sports.

Round the next few headlands are three beaches: Hat Nai Thon, a gorgeous, un-developed stretch; Hat Nai Yang, which is visited by Thais on weekends; and Hat Mai Khao, a deserted 12-km (7.5-mile) stretch of sand.

Ao Nai Harn, a bay near the southern tip of Phuket, is the home of the exclusive Phuket Yacht Club. The beach (open to all) is one of the most beautiful on the island. Cape Promthep, 2 km (1 mile) away on the southern tip of Phuket, offers wonderful views, especially at sunset.

North of Promthep, on the east side of the island, are Hat Rawai, and farther along, Ao Chalong. The sands around this bay are not as white as those on the west coast, but there are many excellent seafood shacks here. Ao Chalong acts as an anchorage for international yachts exploiting its sheltered location, and is also a departure point for boat excursions to the charming islands of Lone, Hai, and Bon, where there is good snorkeling.

Farther up the coast at Cape Phanwa is the interesting and much-visited Phuket Aquarium, which forms part of the Marine Research Center .

Ko Naga Noi, an island off Phuket’s northeast coast, has a tranquil, sandy beach that makes a fine halt for swimming and relaxing. The island is home to the Naga Pearl Farm , whose owners give demonstrations of the process of culturing South Sea pearls.

At Phuket’s northeasternmost point, on the Cape Khut headland, there are sweeping views of the monoliths of Phangnga Bay. The placid waters of the narrow channel between Phuket and Phangnga province are exploited by Muslim fishermen who farm sea bass here.

This town in central Phuket was the site of a famous battle in 1785 against the Burmese, which is commemorated by the Heroines’ Monument 8 km (5 miles) to the south. A short walk east of the monument is the Thalang Museum, which outlines the rich heritage of Phuket. Among the exhibits are 5th-century religious icons, Chinese porcelain, life-size figures recreated from the Burmese battle, and information on the sea gypsies.

In Thalang itself there is a good market and, nearby, Wat Phra Tong. In the center of the wat  lies a gold-covered Buddha image, half buried in the ground. Legend has it that disaster will come to anyone who tries to move the image.

Four kilometers (2.5 miles) east of Thalang is the spectacular Khao Phra Taew Forest Park. The preserve is important as it preserves the last of Phuket’s primary rainforest.

Within the park are two fine waterfalls. Ton Sai waterfall is the prettiest and is at its best from June to December. On the eastern fringe of the preserve is the Bang Pae waterfall.

Near the latter is the Gibbon Rehabilitation Center . This volunteer-run program aims to reintroduce domesticated gibbons into the forest by encouraging them to fend for themselves. Visitors’ donations buy food for the gibbons.