Naton is Samui’s capital and main ferry port. The island was first settled in the 1850s by Chinese merchants who had come in search of trade in cotton and coconuts. Naton was founded around 1905, when the site was chosen as the island’s administrative center.

Few visitors stay here, except in order to take an early morning boat to Surat Thani on the mainland. The town has a supermarket, post office, and money changing facilities.

The main transport route on the island is the 50-km (31-mile) circular road, which passes through Naton. Songthaews  departing from Naton ferry port travel either northward (clockwise) toward Chaweng beach and the airport, or southward (counter-clockwise) toward Lamai.

This 4-km (2-mile) long beach is the most westerly stretch of sand on the north coast. It has extensive views of Ko Pha Ngan. Visitors flock here for the excellent windsurfing opportunities, which are aided by the strong directional breezes that blow on-shore during the northeasterly monsoon from December to February. However, the beach is narrow and not as attractive as others on the island.

Bophut has better facilities than Maenam. Its village, at the eastern end of the next bay to the east, includes bungalows, a bank, bars, restaurants, and a range of water sports. The tranquil 2-km (1-mile) long beach is popular with families and backpackers. From Bophut there is a daily boat service to Hat Rin, a beach on Ko Pha Ngan.

Adjacent to Bophut is Bangrak, also known as “Big Buddha” beach. The sea is not as clear here as it is off Chaweng and Lamai beaches, but it does offer plenty of budget accommodations. A causeway links the eastern end of Bangrak beach to the tiny island of Ko Faan, home to the large, gold-covered Big Buddha. The imposing statue is popular with islanders and Asian tourists, who come here to make merit. A gaudy bazaar of souvenir stalls and cafés has sprung up at the foot of the naga  staircase leading to the Buddha image.

Farther along the coast, on Samui’s northeastern cape, is a series of secluded rocky coves. Hat Thong Son is a peaceful inlet with marvelous views across to Ko Pha Ngan. Most of the accommodation on the headland is concentrated at Ao Choeng Mon, an attractive bay with a pleasant beach and good swimming.

Chaweng is the longest, busiest, and most beautiful beach on the island, stretching 5 km (3 miles) down the east coast. Its warm waters, white sands, and back-to-nature beach bungalows have attracted budget travelers for many years. Today, though, more and more upscale developments are being built to accommodate package tourists.

At the northern end of Chaweng is a tranquil 1-m (3-ft) deep lagoon, ideal for children and novice windsurfers. The long, inviting sweep of the middle and southern end of the beach is bordered by coconut palms. Chaweng is at its most scenic along its southern section where large boulders alternate with discreet sandy coves. For the active, the beach has a wide range of sports including windsurfing, canoeing, paragliding, scuba diving, tennis, and volleyball.

Chaweng has the most developed tourist infrastructure on Samui with travel agencies, banks, supermarkets, and car and bike rental among the facilities available. Although it does attract a few families, Chaweng is still predominantly visited by young travelers. Many come to enjoy the ever-increasing numbers of bars, restaurants, and clubs.

Samui’s second largest beach caters primarily to the European budget tourist. The main focus is at the center of the 4-km (2-mile) long beach. Behind the beach are riotous bars, nightclubs, and restaurants serving Western food.

Lamai village is at the quieter, northern end of the beach, away from the crowds. It still has many old teak houses with thatched roofs. The village’s main sight is Wat Lamai Cultural Hall, built in 1826, which has a small folk museum dedicated to arts and crafts found on Samui.

On the southern promontory of Lamai beach are the Hin Ta and Hin Yai rock formations that are famous for their similarity in shape to male and female sexual organs.

There are many quiet beaches with simple huts along the south and west coasts, such as around Thong Krut. Another is Thong Yang which – although only 1.5 km (1 mile) south of the pier where the vehicle ferries from Don Sak dock – which is perfect for those seeking peaceful seclusion.

For visitors tiring of the beach, the interior of Samui offers an adventurous alternative. The mix of dense tropical forest and large coconut plantations seems impenetrable, but there are rough trails – which can be negotiated by four-wheel-drive vehicle or by motorcycle – and two roads leading to Samui’s picturesque waterfalls.

Namuang, an impressive 30-m (98-ft) high waterfall, is a popular destination for picnics and swimming. It is situated 10 km (6 miles) from Naton and 5 km (3 miles) from the circular coast road. Hin Lat, 3 km (2 miles) from Naton, is smaller than Namuang and less interesting. Both falls are at their most spectacular in December or January at the end of the rainy season, when they swell with rainwater.