SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK

The UNESCO World Heritage site of Old Sukhothai lies to the west of the modern town. It is a potent reminder of the ancient Sukhothai Kingdom, which arose in the early 13th century from what had been a distant outpost of the Khmer Empire. Under the leadership of the Tai warrior King Ramkamhaeng, the city came to dominate the Central Plains. The abandoned city that can be seen today is the best preserved and most popular sight in Central Thailand. Ongoing restoration has revealed the amazing symmetry of its layout and offers the visitor a remarkable insight into a time when Thai art and culture reached its apex.

  • 13 km (8 miles) W of New Sukhothai, Sukhothai province.
  • TAT, Phitsanulok Tel: (0-5525-2743). 

  • New Sukhothai, then songthaew.

  • 6am–9pm daily (tickets sold until 6pm).

  • [email protected]
  • Loy Krathong and Candle Festival (Nov).

RAMKAMHAENG NATIONAL MUSEUM
  • 8:30am–4.30pm Wed–Sun.

  • Ticket (valid for 30 days) includes admission to other historical parks in Sukhothai.

EXPLORING SUKHOTHAI HISTORICAL PARK

The site of Old Sukhothai has around 40 temple complexes spread over an area of about 70 sq km (28 sq miles). At its center is the walled Royal City, protected by moats and ramparts. Many of the most important ruins are within this inner compound. The layout of Old Sukhothai, as with many major Thai cities (muangs) , follows fixed principles: a large, central wat  complex surrounded concentrically by walls, river, rice fields, and, beyond, forested mountains. Another example of this, on a smaller scale, is Si Satchanalai.

One way to see the ruins of the Royal City is by bicycle: shops beside the old east gate rent them by the day for a small fee. A quick test ride is advised as some are in poor condition, and an early start is recommended to avoid the midday heat.

THE ROYAL CITY

Entering from the east, the first wat  within the city walls is Wat Traphang Thong, which is situated on an islet in a small lotus-filled lake. The Sri Lankan-style chedi  dates from the mid-14th century, and a small mondop  beside it enshrines a stone Footprint of the Buddha, still worshipped by resident monks.

The Ramkamhaeng National Museum  houses photographs, taken around 1900–1920, of Sukhothai’s ruins prior to renovation and a large collection of artifacts. At the heart of the moated city is Wat Mahathat , the most important wat  complex in Sukhothai.

Nearby, Wat Takuan has a restored, Sri Lankan bell-shaped chedi . Several Buddha images found in the vault of the chedi  are thought to date from the early Sukhothai period, though they remain something of a mystery.

To the southwest, at Wat Si Sawai, are three 12th–14th-century Khmer-style prangs , thought to predate the Tai takeover of the city.

The bot  of Wat Traphang Ngoen, mentioned in Ramkamhaeng’s famous Inscription No. 1, lies in an artificial rectangular lake.

Copper Buddha images and Chinese pottery were recovered from Wat Sa Si, also at the center of an artificial lake. These are now in the Ramkamhaeng National Museum.

Nearby, Wat Chana Songkhram has a restored, squat Sri Lankan-style chedi . A smaller chedi  here dates from the Ayutthaya period.

To the north of Wat Mahathat is the modern King Ramkamhaeng Monument . Beyond lies San Ta Pha Daeng, a 12th-century Khmer shrine that once housed sandstone Hindu icons, now in the Ramkamhaeng National Museum.

Wat Sorasak, a small, brick, bell-shaped chedi , dates from the early 15th century. The square base is supported by 24 stucco elephants.

EAST OF THE ROYAL CITY

Wat Chang Lom, a bell-shaped chedi  similar to one at Si Satchanalai, has 36 brick and stucco elephants around its base. It represents mythical Mount Meru, supported by elephants. Beyond is Wat Chedi Sung, a beautiful chedi  with a high, square base typical of the late Sukhothai era.

NORTH OF THE ROYAL CITY

Wat Phra Phai Luang, a Khmer-style complex, is thought to be part of the original mid-13th century settlement, built when this region was part of the Khmer Empire. Only one of the three laterite prangs , decorated with stucco fragments, is extant. Nearby, the mondop  of Wat Si Chum has an immense seated Buddha peering through an opening.

EXPLORING THE OUTER SIGHTS

Along a low ridge of hills, around 3.5 km (2 miles) west of the ramparted royal city is another string of ruins that form part of the Sukhothai Historical Park. Most important of these is Wat Saphan Hin , where a 12.5-m (41-ft) high Buddha image, Phra Attharot, similar to the Buddha images of the same name at Wat Mahathat, stands on a low summit. There is another large image, similar to Phra Attharot, at Wat Phra Yun, though the head and hands are missing.

Closer to the west city wall is Wat Pa Mamuang, of archeological importance for the inscriptions discovered here relating to King Lo Thai.

To the south are the ruins of Wat Chetuphon, where a mondop  contains the remains of four Buddha images in varying postures; two are in good condition, but of the other two, one is missing below the waist and the other has virtually disappeared. At Wat Chedi Si Hong, the base of the laterite brick chedi  is lined with stucco elephants, interspersed with divinities.

Beyond the southern edge of the Historical Park loom the hills of Ramkamhaeng National Park . Covering 342 sq km (133 sq mile), this is home to serow, gaur, and wild pig.


RAMKAMHAENG NATIONAL PARK

 



  • S of Sukhothai off Hwy 101.
  • Forestry Dept (Tel: 0-2562-0760  inc bungalow bookings).


LOY KRATHONG AT SUKHOTHAI

Loy Krathong occurs at the November full moon to mark the end of the rainy season and the main rice harvest. The festival has its origins in the Hindu tradition of thanking the water god for the rains. Krathongs , bowls fashioned out of banana leaves holding lighted candles, are floated on water after dark. Though celebrated all over Thailand, the most exuberant festivities take place at Old Sukhothai. Nowadays, the festival includes folk dancing and sound-and-light shows.

WAT MAHATHAT

Wat Mahathat was the spiritual center of the Sukhothai Kingdom. The central chedi  was founded by Si Intharathit (c.1240–70), first king of Sukhothai, and rebuilt in the 1340s by Lue Thai (1298–1346) to house relics of the Buddha. Buildings were added to the complex by successive kings: by the time it was abandoned in the 16th century it had some 200 chedis  as well as numerous wihans  and mondops .



Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai Historical Park, ruins dating from 13th to 15th century