AYUTTHAYA

The city of Ayutthaya was founded around 1350 by Ramathibodi I (1351–69), who came here to escape an outbreak of smallpox at Lop Buri. By the early 15th century Ayutthaya had become a major power. Sukhothai fell to Ayutthaya in 1438. Western traders arrived in the early 16th century, and evidence of Ayutthaya’s splendor comes from their accounts. In the early 18th century, after years of war, decline set in, and in 1767 the Burmese sacked the city. Today, the ruins stand among the modern buildings of the provincial town.

  • Phra Nakhon Si Ayutthaya province.
  • 60,900.

  • Off Bang Ain Rd.

  • Naresuan Rd.

  • TAT, Si Sanphet Rd, Ayutthaya Tel: (0-3532-2730-1). 

  • daily.


WAT PHRA MAHATHAT

 



  • Corner of Chi Kun Rd and Naresuan Rd.
  • daily.

Wat Phra Mahathat is one of the largest and most important wat  complexes in Ayutthaya. It was almost certainly founded in the late 14th century by King Borommaracha I (1370–88). Other buildings were subsequently added by his successor, Ramesuan (1388–95).



WAT RATCHABURANA

 



  • Cheekun Rd.
  • daily.

Across the road from Wat Mahathat is Wat Ratchaburana, its prang  now restored. It was built in the early 15th century by King Borommaracha II (1424–48) on the cremation site of his two brothers, who died in a power struggle. Both of them had wanted to succeed their father, Intharacha I (1409–24), to the throne. Robbers looted the crypt in 1957 and escaped with a huge cache of gold artifacts, only a few of which were recovered. A steep, narrow staircase now descends to the crypt where visitors can see the faded remains of Ayutthayan frescoes.



CHAN KASEM PALACE

 



  • Uthong Rd, opposite the night market.
  • Wed–Sun.

In the northeast corner of the main island stands the Chan Kasem Palace or Wang Na. It was built in 1577 by the illustrious Naresuan, the son of King Maha Thammaracha (1569–90), before he became king. When Naresuan came to the throne in 1590, the palace became his permanent residence. The buildings seen today, however, date from the reign of King Mongkut (1851–68), as the palace was razed by the Burmese in 1767. It houses a large collection of Buddha images and historical artifacts. Behind the Chan Kasem Palace is the Pisai Sayalak Tower , once used as an astronomical observatory by King Mongkut.



WAT THAMMIKARAT

 



  • Uthong Rd.
  • daily.

At this picturesque site are the dilapidated remains of a large, early Ayutthayan, octagonal chedi  surrounded by stucco and brick lions, or singhas . Beside the chedi  is the ruin of a wihan , slowly succumbing to weeds and trees. A beautiful U Thong Buddha head recovered from here is now in the Chao Sam Phraya National Museum.



WANG LUANG

 



  • Uthong Rd.
  • daily.

To the west of Wat Thammikarat is Wang Luang, the northern extension of the royal palace built by King Borommatrailokanat (1448–88) in the mid-15th century. Successive monarchs added a number of pavilions and halls. Wang Luang was razed by the Burmese in 1767. The best preserved of the buildings of the former royal palace is the Trimuk Pavilion . It was built during the reign of King Chulalongkorn (1868–1910) on the site of earlier foundations.



WAT PHRA SI SANPHET

 



Founded by King Borommatrailokanat during the 15th century as a state temple, Wat Phra Si Sanphet was later added to by his son, Ramathibodi II, who built two chedis  to house the relics of his father and brother. The third chedi  was built by Borommaracha IV to house the remains of Ramathibodi II. The site was extended by subsequent rulers until the Burmese sack of 1767. Partially renovated in the 20th century, many of its treasures are now kept in museums.

  • Si Sanphet Rd, Ayutthaya.
  • 9am–5pm daily.



WIHAN PHRA MONGKHON BOPHIT

 



  • Si Sanphet Rd.
  • daily.

This wat  contains one of Thailand’s largest bronze Buddha images. Now gilded, it probably dates from the late 15th century, though it has undergone numerous restorations. In 1767 Burmese invaders destroyed much of the wihan  and damaged the image’s head and right hand. The image was left open to the sky until the 1950s, when the wihan  was rebuilt.



WAT PHRA RAM

 



  • Si Sanphet Rd.
  • daily.

A chronicle relates that Wat Phra Ram was built in 1369 on the cremation site of King Ramathibodi (1351–69) by his son, Ramesuan. The elegant prang  visible today, however, is the result of later renovation by King Borommatrailokanat (1448–88). The prang  is decorated with garudas, nagas , and walking Buddha images. Surrounding it are wihans  and a bot . The wat  casts beautiful reflections in nearby lily ponds.



WAT LOKAYA SUTHARAM

 



  • W of main island.
  • daily.

This wat  is the site of a 42-m (140-ft) long, whitewashed reclining Buddha image. Large Buddha images such as this do not always depict the Buddha’s death, but sometimes, as in this instance, an occasion when the Buddha grew 100 times in size to confront the demon Rahu. The image now lies in the open air, the original wihan , having been destroyed by the Burmese; 24 octagonal pillars are all that remain of this wihan . The wat  also houses the ruins of a bot  and chedis .



CHAO SAM PHRAYA NATIONAL MUSEUM

 



Among the exhibits here is a small collection of gold artifacts, including a jewel-encrusted sword, gold slippers, and jewelry. Discovered in the crypt of Wat Ratchaburana’s central prang  when it was looted in 1957, they are among the few items from the wat  to have survived the sack of Ayutthaya by the Burmese. Other artifacts include bronze Buddha images and wooden door panels from wats  around Ayutthaya.



AYUTTHAYA HISTORICAL STUDY CENTER

 



  • Rotchana.
  • daily.

This study center houses interesting audiovisual displays depicting Ayutthaya’s history and trading relations. There is also a reconstructed model of Wat Phra Si Sanphet. Another part of the study center stands in what was the Japanese quarter at the time when Ayutthaya was at the height of its power.



WAT SUWAN DARARAM

 



  • Near Pomphet.
  • daily.

This temple was completely destroyed by the Burmese but later rebuilt by Rama I (1782–1809). The ubosot  is usually locked, but it is worth requesting the key to see the murals commissioned by Rama VII (1925–35), depicting scenes from the time of King Naresuan. Among them is a mural of the Battle of Nong Sarai, which was fought against the Burmese in 1593.

Nearby is a section of the old city defenses, Phom Phet, which were a strategically important lookout post over the Chao Phraya River.


EXPLORING AYUTTHAYA: THE OUTER SITES

The central island of Ayutthaya stands at the confluence of the Chao Phraya, Lop Buri, and Pasak Rivers. The town’s most imposing sites are to be found on the central island. However, a short samlor  ride by bridge over any of the rivers, which more or less encircle it, will bring you to many more sites of interest. Wat Na Phra Men is one of Ayutthaya’s most beautiful wats , and St. Joseph’s Church offers a glimpse of Ayutthaya’s connections with Western trading powers during the city’s heyday. The main part of modern Ayutthaya sprawls to the east of the island, over the Pasak River and beyond.


WAT NA PHRA MEN

 



  • Opp Royal Palace, nr Muang Canal.
  • Tel: 0-3525-2163.
  • daily.

Across a bridge to the north of the main island is Wat Na Phra Men, one of the most beautiful of Ayutthaya’s monasteries, and one of the few to survive the Burmese sacking of the city in 1767. Thought to date from the reign of Intharacha II (1488–91), it was restored during the reign of King Borommakot (1733–58), and again in the mid-19th century. In the wihan  is a Dvaravati seated Buddha image, Phra Kanthararat, that was moved here from Nakhon Pathom in the mid-16th century. The murals covering the wihan  walls have now almost completely disappeared. Its doors are from the early 19th century. In the adjacent bot  is a gilded Buddha image, probably from the reign of King Prasat Thong (1629–56).



ELEPHANT KRAAL

 



  • NW on Hwy 309.
  • daily.

Farther to the north is the elephant kraal. It is thought that the original structure, built by King Yot Fa (1547–8), stood within the confines of the old city wall. The present kraal, built later, was in use well into the 19th century – wild elephants would be driven here for training as pack animals or war mounts for senior officers. In the middle of the stockade is a shrine where the elephant guardian is thought to live.



WAT PHU KHAO THONG

 



  • 2 km (1 mile) NW on Hwy 309.
  • daily.

To the west, the original chedi  of Phu Khao Thong was constructed by King Bayinnaung of Burma to celebrate his capture of Ayutthaya in 1569. Additions were made in 1744–5 by the Thai King Borommakot.



WAT CHAI WATTHANARAM

 



  • W bank of Chao Phraya River, SW of main island.
  • daily.

This wat  was built by King Prasat Thong in 1630. The central prang  is surrounded by eight smaller ones, decorated with stucco reliefs depicting images such as the Buddha preaching to his mother in the Tavatimsa Heaven. All the prangs  have been restored.



ST. JOSEPH’S CHURCH

 



  • SW of main island on the Chao Phraya River.
  • daily.

St. Joseph’s, overlooking the Chao Phraya River, has been the site of Catholic worship for over 300 years. The original 17th-century structure was destroyed by the Burmese in 1767. The present church was built during the 19th century.



WAT PHUTTHAISAWAN

 



  • S of main island.
  • daily.

East from St. Joseph’s is Wat Phutthaisawan, also located on the river bank. It has a restored 14th-century prang  surrounded by a cloister filled with Buddha images.



WAT KUTI DAO

 



  • E of railway station.
  • daily.

This wat  originally dated from the early Ayutthaya period, but the ruins here today are of an 18th-century renovation by King Phumintharacha. The chedi  is flanked by a wihan  and a bot  with distinctive arched windows and doors.



WAT PRADU SONGTHAM

 



  • N of railroad station, E of main island.
  • daily.

Inside the wihan  of Wat Pradu Songtham are the remains of murals dating from the early Rattanakosin period. These recount the life of the Buddha and also show images of daily life, including one of a performance of the Ramakien at a fair. Outside is a bell tower topped by a small chedi  from the late Ayutthaya period.



WAT MAHEYONG

 



  • E of main island.
  • daily.

The partially reconstructed ruins of Wat Maheyong date from the reign of King Borommaracha II (1424–48). The principal, bell-shaped chedi  shows a clear stylistic link with earlier Sukhothai chedis , while all around the rectangular base are the remnants of stucco elephants. Other chedis  at this site also show Sukhothai influence.



WAT YAI CHAI MONGKHON

 



  • E of main island.
  • daily.

The chedi  here, one of the largest in Ayutthaya, was built by King Naresuan (1590–1605) to celebrate his victory over the Burmese at Nong Sarai in 1593. Flanking steps up to the chedi  are two mondops  housing seated Buddha images. On the northeast side of the wat  is a ruined wihan  containing a reclining Buddha.



Reclining Buddha in a ruined wihan  at Wat Yai Chai Mongkhon



WAT PHANAN CHOENG

 



  • S of main island.
  • daily.

This wat  has been renovated over the years and houses the large, 14th-century, seated image of Phra Chao Phanan Choeng. The wihan  was built in the mid-19th century.



BAN YIPUN

 



  • S of main island.
  • daily.

Once the site of a 17th-century Japanese settlement, today a museum here displays exhibits that explain Ayutthaya’s foreign relations at the time.