GRAND PALACE AND WAT PHRA KAEO
Construction of this remarkable site began in 1782, to mark the founding of the new capital and provide a resting place for the sacred Emerald Buddha (Phra Kaeo) and a residence for the king. Surrounded by walls stretching for 1,900 m (2,080 yards), the complex was once a self-sufficient city within a city. The Royal Family now lives in Dusit, but Wat Phra Kaeo is still Thailand’s holiest temple – visitors must cover their knees and heels before entering.
- Na Phra Lan Rd.
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1, 3, 25, 33, 39, 53.
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Chang, Tien.
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8:30am–3:30pm daily.
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ceremonies.
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includes Vimanmek Palace.
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in bot.
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- www.palaces.thai.net
Wat Phra Kaeo is a sub-complex within the greater Grand Palace complex. The temple is Thailand’s holiest shrine, but unlike other Thai wats , has no resident monks.
Wat Phra Kaeo
1782 Official founding of new capital
1783 Work begins on Wat Phra Kaeo, Dusit Throne Hall, and Phra Maha Monthien
1809 Rama II introduces Chinese details
1840s Women’s quarter laid out as a city within a city
1855 New buildings epitomize fusion of Eastern and Western styles
1880 Chulalongkorn, the last king to make major additions, involves 26 half-brothers in renovation of Wat Phra Kaeo
1925 Rama VII chooses to live in the less formal Chitrlada Palace at Dusit. Grand Palace reserved for special occasions
1932 Chakri Dynasty’s 150th year celebrated at palace
1982 Renovation of the complex
When Rama I established the new capital of Bangkok in 1782 his ambition was to construct a royal temple along the lines of the grand chapels of previous capital cities. Symbolizing the simultaneous founding of the Chakri dynasty, this temple was to surpass its larger Sukhothai and Ayutthaya predecessors in the splendor of its design and decoration. The result of his vision was Wat Phra Kaeo, or Temple of the Emerald Buddha (officially known as Wat Phra Si Rattana Sasadaram), so called because the bot houses the Emerald Buddha image, brought here from Wat Arun in 1785.
The most sacred building within the palace complex, the bot of Wat Phra Kaeo was erected to house what is still the most revered image of the Buddha in Thailand: the Emerald Buddha.
The exterior doors and windows of the bot are inlaid with delicate mother-of-pearl designs. Along the marble base supporting the structure runs a series of gilt bronze garudas (half bird, half human). The staircase of the main entrance is guarded by Cambodian-style stone lions, or singhas . Inside, the surprisingly small image of the Emerald Buddha sits in a glass case high above a golden altar. Carved from a single piece of jade (not emerald), it is 66 cm (26 in) tall and has a lap span of 48 cm (19 in). The Buddha has been attributed to the late Lanna School of the 15th century. It is dressed in one of three costumes: a crown and jewelry for the summer season; a golden shawl in winter; and a gilded monastic robe and headdress in the rainy season. The reigning monarch or a prince appointed by him presides over each changing of the Buddha’s attire in a deeply symbolic ceremony. Inside the bot are murals from the reign of Rama III (1824–51). They depict the classic subjects of Thai mural painting, namely the Traiphum (Buddhist cosmology), the Buddha’s victory over Mara (the god of death), and scenes from the previous lives of the Buddha – the jatakas . Around the temple are 12 open-sided salas (small pavilions) built as contemplative shelters.
Southeast of the bot is the 19th-century Chapel of the Gandharara Buddha . The bronze image of the Buddha calling the rains housed here is used in the Royal Plowing Ceremony in May. The bell in the nearby belfry is rung only on special occasions such as New Year’s Day.
Of the four structures on this elevated terrace, the Phra Si Rattana Chedi , at the western end, is the most striking. It was built by King Mongkut (Rama IV) to enshrine a piece of the Buddha’s breastbone. The golden tiles decorating the exterior were later added by King Chulalongkorn (Rama V).
The adjacent Phra Mondop , used as a library, was built by Rama I as a hall to house Buddhist scriptures. Although the Library is closed to the public, the exterior is splendid in itself. The Javanese Buddha images on the four outer corners are copies of early 9th-century originals, which are now in the museum near the entrance to the palace complex. Outside the building are memorials to all the kings of the present Chakri dynasty, and bronze elephant statues representing the royal white elephants from the first five reigns of the dynasty.
To the north of the mondop is a model of Angkor Wat in northwest Cambodia. The model was commissioned by Rama IV to show his people the scale and gracious splendor of 12th-century Khmer architecture – Cambodia during his reign being under Thai rule.
The Royal Pantheon houses life-size statues of the Chakri kings. Rama IV had intended the hall to hold the Emerald Buddha, but decided that it was too small. The pantheon is open to the public only on Chakri Day.
Phra Si Rattana Chedi, Wat Phra Kaeo, Bangkok.
Ho Phra Nak was originally constructed by Rama I in the late 18th century to enshrine the Nak (literally, alloy of gold, silver, and copper) Buddha image that had been rescued from Ayutthaya. Rama III, however, demolished the original hall, preferring to build the present brick and mortar structure to house the ashes of minor members of the royal family. The Nak Buddha was moved into the neighboring Wihan Yot , which is shaped like a Greek cross and decorated with Chinese porcelain.
Also on the Northern Terrace is the Ho Phra Monthien Tham , or Auxiliary Library, built by the brother of Rama I. The door panels, inlaid with mother-of-pearl, were salvaged from Ayutthaya’s Wat Borom Buddharam. Inside, Buddhist scriptures are stored in fine cabinets.
Surrounding the temple complex is the cloisterlike Ramakien Gallery, decorated with lavishly painted and meticulously restored murals. This is Thailand’s most extensive depiction of the ancient legend of the Ramakien. The 178 panels were originally painted in the late 18th century, but damage from humidity means that frequent renovation is necessary. The murals are divided by marble pillars inscribed with verses relating the story, which begins opposite Wihan Yot and proceeds in a clockwise direction.
Guarding each gateway to the gallery is a pair of yakshas (demons). Placed here during the reign of Rama II, they are said to protect the Emerald Buddha from evil spirits. Each one represents a different character from the Ramakien myth: the green one, for example, symbolizes Tosakan, or the demon king.
The eight different-colored prangs on the edge of the temple complex are intricately decorated with Chinese porcelain. They represent the eight elements of the Buddhist religion, including the Buddha, the Dharma (law), the sangha (monkhood), and the bhiksunis (female Buddhists).
In 1434 lightning struck the chedi of Wat Phra Kaeo in Chiang Rai in Northern Thailand, revealing a simple stucco image. The abbot of the temple kept it in his residence until the flaking plaster exposed a jadeite image beneath. Upon learning of the discovery, the king of Chiang Mai sent an army of elephants to bring the image to him. The elephant bearing the Emerald Buddha, however, refused to take the road to Chiang Mai, and, treating this as an auspicious sign, the entourage re-routed to Lampang. The image was moved several more times over the next century, then was taken to Wat Pha Kaew in Laos in 1552. It was not until General Chakri (later Rama I) captured Vientiane in 1778 that the Emerald Buddha was returned to Thailand. It was kept in Wat Arun for 15 years, before a grand river procession brought it to its current resting place on March 5, 1785.
Built at the same time as Wat Phra Kaeo, the Grand Palace was the king’s official residence from 1782 to 1946, although King Chulalongkorn (Rama V) was the last monarch to live here. Today, the royal family resides at Chitrlada Palace. Throughout the palace’s history, many structures have been altered. Within the complex there are a few functioning government buildings, such as the Ministry of Finance, but most others are unused. Important ceremonies are still held in the Dusit Throne Hall and the Amarin Winichai Hall.
This cross-shaped throne hall was originally built in 1784 as a reproduction of one of Ayutthaya’s grandest buildings, Sanphet Maha Prasat. Five years later the hall was struck by lightning and rebuilt on a smaller scale. Crowned with a sumptuously decorated tiered spire, it is one of the finest examples of early Rattanakosin architecture. Inside is a masterpiece of Thai art: the original Rama I teak throne, inlaid with mother-of-pearl. In the south wing is a window in the form of a throne. The hall is used for the annual Coronation Day celebrations.
Exterior of the Dusit Throne Hall, with its elegant multitered spire.
King Mongkut (Rama IV) built this small wooden structure as a royal changing room for when he was giving audiences at the Dusit Throne Hall. The king would be carried on a palanquin to the pavilion’s shoulder-high first step. Inside the building he would change into the appropriate apparel for the occasion. The pavilion’s simple structure, complemented by its elaborate decoration, makes it a building of perfect proportions: indeed, it is considered a glory of Thai architecture. It inspired Rama V so much so that he had a replica built at Bang Pa-in.
Also known as the Grand Palace Throne Hall, Chakri Maha Prasat was built in Neo-Classical style by the British architect John Chinitz. Rama V commissioned the building in 1882 to mark the centenary of the Chakri dynasty, a fact reflected in the theme of the sumptuous decoration. The structure was originally intended to have a domed roof, but the royal court decided that, in the interest of maintaining aesthetic harmony with the surrounding buildings, a Thai-style roof would be more appropriate.
Housed on the top floor of the Central Hall are the ashes of royal monarchs, and the first floor functions as the main audience hall where the King receives ambassadors and entertains foreign monarchs.
Behind the Niello Throne in the Chakri Throne Room is the emblem of the Chakri dynasty: a discus and trident. The paintings in the room depict diplomatic missions, including Queen Victoria welcoming Rama IV’s ambassador in London. The East Wing is used as a reception room for royal guests. The long hall connecting the Central Hall with this wing is lined with portraits of the Chakri dynasty. In the West Wing is the queen’s personal reception room. Portraits of the principal queens of Rama IV, Rama V, and Rama VII decorate the hall between the Central Hall and this wing.
Elephant statue by Chakri Throne Hall
This cluster of connected buildings, located to the east of the Chakri Throne Hall, is the “Grand Residence” of the palace complex.
The focal point of the 18th-century Amarin Winichai Hall , the northernmost building of the group, is Rama I’s boat-shaped Busabok Mala Throne. When an audience was present, two curtains hid the throne as the king ascended, and, with an elaborate fanfare, the curtains were drawn back to reveal the king wearing a loose, golden gown and seeming to float on the prowlike part of the throne. In the 19th century two British ambassadors were received in such manner here; John Crawfurd by Rama II and Sir John Bowring by Rama IV. The hall is now used for some state ceremonies.
Connected to the hall by a gateway through which only the king, queen, and royal children may walk is the Phaisan Thaksin Hall . This was used by Rama I as a private hall when dining with family, friends, and members of the royal court. In 1809 a Borom Rachaphisek Ceremony was performed in this hall to mark the coronation of the new king, Rama II. On the high altar is the Phra Siam Thewathirat, a highly venerated guardian figure, placed here by Rama IV.
The third building is the Chakraphat Phiman Hall . It served as a residence for the first three Chakri kings. It is still the custom for a newly crowned king to spend a night here as part of his coronation.
Behind a gateway to the left of the Chakri Throne Hall is the entrance to the Inner Palace, which is closed to the public. Until the time of Rama VII, the palace was inhabited solely by women of the royal family: principal wives, minor wives, and daughters. Apart from sons, who had to leave the palace on reaching puberty, the king was the only male allowed to live within its walls. The palace functioned as a small city, with its own government and laws, complete with prison cells. Under the strict guidance of a formidable “Directress of the Inside,” a small army of uniformed officers policed the area.
Rama III renovated the overcrowded and precarious wooden structures, and, in the late 19th century, Rama V built small, fantastical Victorian style palaces here for his favorite consorts. Because his successor, Rama VI, had only one wife, the complex was left virtually empty, and it eventually fell into disrepair.
One of the palace buildings that continues to function is the finishing school for the daughters of high-society Thai families. The girls are taught flower weaving, royal cuisine, and social etiquette.
These beautiful gardens, which are often closed for state functions, lie east of the Inner Palace and contain the Phra Buddha Ratana Sathan , a personal chapel built by Rama IV. The pavilion is covered in gray marble and decorated with white and blue glass mosaics. The marble bai sema (boundary stones) are inlaid with the insignia of Rama V, who placed the stones here, Rama II, who had the gardens laid out, and Rama IV.
The Neo-Classical Boromphiman Mansion in the gardens was built by Rama V as a residence for the Crown Prince (later King Rama VI). The building served as a temporary residence for several kings: Rama VII, Rama VIII, and Rama IX (King Bhumibol). Today it is used as a guest house for visiting dignitaries.
Visible from outside the palace walls, this chamber – Phra Thinang Sutthaisawan Prasat – is located between Thewaphithak and Sakchaisit gates. It was built by Rama I as a place to grant an audience during royal ceremonies and to watch the training of his elephants. Rama III strengthened the wooden structure with brick, and decorative features were added later. These include the crowning spire and ornamental cast-iron motifs.