16,000.
Sítio de São João
(Tel: 282 763 031 ).
1st Sat of
month.
Set on one of the largest bays in the Algarve, Lagos is an attractive, bustling
town. In the 8th century it was conquered by the Arabs, who left behind
fortifications that were extended in the 16th century. A well-preserved section
and archway can be seen near Rua do Castelo dos Governadores, where there is a
monument to the navigator Gil Eanes.
The discoveries of the 15th century, pioneered by Henry the Navigator, whose
statue gazes scowlingly out to sea, turned Lagos into an important naval centre.
At the same time a most deplorable period of history began, with the first
slaves brought back from the Sahara in 1441 by Henry’s explorer Nuno Tristão.
The site of the first slave market in Europe is marked by a
plaque under the arcades on Rua da Senhora da Graça.
The city was the capital of the Algarve from 1576–1756. Extensive damage was
caused by the earthquake of 1755, so that today the centre consists primarily of
pretty 18th- and 19th-century buildings. The citizens of Lagos continue to make
their living from fishing, which helps the town to retain a character
independent of the tourist trade.
The smart new marina on the east side of town provides the first safe anchorage
on the south coast for boats coming in from the Atlantic.
Tue–Sun.
public hols.
On the seafront stands the 17th-century fortress which defended the entrance
to the harbour. Its imposing ramparts afford far-reaching views over the
town and the bay.
daily.
The parish church of Lagos originated in the 16th century, and still retains
a Renaissance doorway. Of local interest is a statue of São Gonçalo of
Lagos, a fisherman’s son born in 1360 who became an Augustinian monk,
preacher and composer of religious music.
Tue–Sun.
public hols.
This 18th-century church is an Algarvian jewel. The lower section of the
walls is covered in blue and white azulejos , the rest in
carved, gilded and painted woodwork, an inspirational and riotous example of
Baroque carving. Cherubs, beasts, flowers and scenes of hunting and fishing,
surround eight panel paintings of miracles performed by St Antony.
A statue of the saint stands above the altar, surrounded by gilded pillars
and arches adorned with angels and vines. St Antony was patron and honorary
colonel-in-chief of the local regiment and, according to tradition, this
statue accompanied it on various campaigns during the Peninsular War
(1807–11).
Near the altar is the grave of Hugh Beatty, an Irish colonel who commanded
the Lagos regiment during the 17th-century wars with Spain. He died here in
1709 and his motto “Non vi sed arte” (Not with force but with skill) adorns
the tomb.
Tue–Sun.
public hols.
Next door to the church of Santo António, an eclectic ethnographic museum
displays local handicrafts and artefacts, traditional costumes and – most
oddly – pickled creatures, including animal freaks such as an eight-legged
goat kid. The custodian provides an informal guided tour.
The promontory, called the Ponta da Piedade , sheltering
the bay of Lagos to the south has a series of wonderful rock formations,
caves and calm, transparent waters. Accessible by road and sea, and most
spectacular at sunset, this area is not to be missed. The prettiest
beach is Praia de Dona Ana , 25 minutes’ walk from the
centre of town, but Praia do Camilo , further round to
the tip of the promontory, may be less crowded. The long Meia Praia stretches for 4 km (2 miles) east of Lagos; a
regular bus service leaves from the centre of town.
A 10-km (6-mile) drive due north of Lagos leads to the huge Barragem de Bravura reservoir. It is peaceful and especially
picturesque seen from a viewpoint high up.
Visitors in speed boats sailing below umber-hued sandstone rocks
hiding Ponta de Piedade caves and grottoes
Ochre sandstone rocks on the sheltered beach of Praia de Dona
Ana, Lagos
