The tiny medieval walled town of Monsaraz perches above the River Guadiana on the
frontier with Spain. Now a pretty backwater, it has known more turbulent times.
Regained from the Moors in 1167 by the intrepid adventurer Geraldo Sem-Pavor
(the Fearless), the town was handed over to the militant Knights Templar. Its
frontier position continued to expose it to Spanish attack, but in 1381 assault
came from an unexpected quarter. Troops of the Earl of Cambridge, Portugal’s
ally, were enraged by lack of pay and the annulment of the earl’s betrothal to
Fernando I’s daughter, and unleashed their wrath on Monsaraz.

Principal access to the town is through the massive Porta da Vila. Rua Direita,
the main street, leads up to the castle . Built by Afonso III
and Dinis in the 13th century as part of the border defences, it was reinforced
in the 17th century. The keep commands glorious views in all directions and at
its foot is the garrison courtyard which today serves on occasion as a
bullring.

The 16th-century Igreja Matriz  in Rua Direita is worth visiting
for its tall gilded altars and painted pillars. The 17th- and 18th-century
houses along here display coats of arms. In the Gothic Paços da Audiência, now
the Museu de Arte Sacra , is a collection of vestments,
religious books and sculpture. Its earlier role as a law court is reflected in
an unusual secular fresco: O Bom e o Mau Juiz  (The Good and Bad Judge).