CHAVES

  • 18,000.

  • Terreiro da
    Cavalaria (Tel: 276 340 661 ).

  • Wed.

  • www.rt-atb.pt

Beside the upper reaches of the Tâmega stands historic Chaves, attractively sited
in the middle of a fertile plain.

Thermal springs and nearby gold deposits encouraged the Romans to establish Aquae
Flaviae here in AD 78. Its strategic position led to successive invasion and
occupation by the Suevi, Visigoths and Moors, before the Portuguese gained final
possession in 1160. The name Chaves (“keys”) is often associated with the keys
of the north awarded to Nuno Álvares Pereira, hero of Aljubarrota. A
likelier but more pedestrian explanation is that Chaves is simply a corruption
of the Latin “Flaviae”.

Today Chaves is renowned for its spa and historic centre, and for its smoked
hams. A curiosity of the north, the distinctive black pottery, is made in nearby
Nantes.

The old town focuses on the Praça de Camões. The 14th-century keep  overlooking this pleasant medieval square is all that remains of
the castle given to Nuno Álvares Pereira by João I. On the south side of the
square stands the Igreja Matriz  with its fine Romanesque
portal. The Baroque Misericórdia  church opposite has an
exquisite interior lined with 18th-century azulejos .
Attributed to Policarpo de Oliveira Bernardes, the huge panels depict scenes
from the New Testament.


MUSEU MILITAR AND MUSEU DA REGIÃO FLAVIENSE

 



  • Praça de Camões.
  • Tel: 276 340 500.

  • daily.

  • public hols.

  • joint
    ticket.

Within the castle keep is a small military museum, where suits of armour,
uniforms and associated regalia are on display. Also exhibited are military
memorabilia from the city’s defence against the attack by Royalists from
Spain in 1912. In the flower-filled garden surrounding the keep are a few
archaeological finds from Chaves’s long history, but most are to be found in
the Museu da Região Flaviense behind the keep. Here, in the Paço dos Duques
de Bragança, are displayed a variety of local archaeological discoveries.
Items of interest include souvenirs of the Roman occupation, such as
milestones and coins, alongside an oxcart and a straw mantle of the type
worn by shepherds for protection in the rain or the hot sun.



PONTE ROMANA

 



The 16-arch Roman bridge across the Tâmega was completed around AD 100, at
the time of the Emperor Trajan. Its construction brought added importance to
Chaves as a staging post on the route between Braga and Astorga (in
northwestern Spain). On the bridge are Roman milestones which record that
funds to build it were raised locally.



THERMAL SPRINGS

 



  • Largo Tito Flávio Vespasiano.
  • Tel: 276 332 445.

  • daily.

A few minutes on foot from the city centre is one of the hottest springs in
Europe. Water here bubbles up at a temperature of 73°C (163°F) and the spa’s
facilities attract both holiday-makers and patients seeking treatment (see
Thermal spas). Chaves
water is recommended for the treatment of ailments as diverse as rheumatism,
kidney dysfunction and hypertension.

ENVIRONS

Close to the village of Soutelo, 4 km (2 miles) northwest of Chaves (the
route is signposted), is the strange Outeiro Machado
Boulder . It measures 50 m (165 ft) in length and is covered
with mysterious hieroglyphs and symbols of unknown meaning. These may be
Celtic in origin.

Another gigantic boulder, the Pedra Bolideira , lies
near Bolideira, 16 km (10 miles) east of Chaves. Split in two, the
massive larger section balances lightly, needing only a gentle push to
rock it to and fro.

The spa town of Vidago , 17 km (11 miles) southwest of
Chaves, is well known for its therapeutic water. The Vidago Palace
Hotel, once the haunt of royalty, has been renovated in recent years,
but retains the regal charm of its park, lakes and pump room.


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