WADI RUM
The desert landscape of Wadi Rum is one of the most awe-inspiring sights in the entire Middle East. Huge ochre-coloured rock pinnacles, weathered into bulbous, outlandish shapes, rise up 600 m (2,000 ft) from the flat valley floors, like islands in a sea of red sand. Hundreds of hiking and climbing routes wind their way up and around the many peaks. This area was once on a major trade route, and evidence of settlement here includes ruins of a temple built by the Nabataeans and carvings and inscriptions left by the later Thamud people. Today the region is still inhabited by semi-nomadic Bedouin tribes.
- 30 km (19 miles) SE of the Desert Highway (Route 53). Turn off 45 km (28 miles) N of Aqaba.
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advisable for visiting the desert. Jeeps, camels and guides available at the Rest House or in Rum village.
- Tel: (03) 201 8867.
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Tourists at Khazali Canyon.
Bedouins in the sandy desert of Wadi Rum.
1888 –1935
Lawrence of Arabia, the most famous British hero of World War I, earned his nickname for his exploits fighting alongside the Arab tribes that revolted against Turkish rule in 1915. Sent to Mecca in 1916 to liaise with leaders of the revolt, he then led many Arab guerrilla operations in the desert, including attacks on the Hejaz Railway, some launched from Wadi Rum. He also took part in the capture of Aqaba and the advance on Damascus. The Seven Pillars of Wisdom , his account of the Arab Revolt, contains lyrical descriptions of the dramatic scenery around Wadi Rum.
There are essentially two main ways to explore the desert of Wadi Rum: through a combination of jeep and hiking, or by camel trekking. Jeeps allow you to travel further and faster, but the more traditional means of transport will bring you much closer to the stillness of the desert. Either way, make sure you carry lots of water and avoid travelling during the midday heat, especially in summer.
A wide range of jeep tour options is posted at the main reception gate, 7 km (4.5 miles) before Rum village. If you have not pre-arranged a trip, you will be allocated a driver here. It is possible to join up with other travellers to share the cost of a jeep. There are two main areas to explore: the main southern section of Wadi Rum and the less-visited northern scenery closer to the village of Diseh.
The most popular destinations include the striking red sand dunes of Jebel Umm Ulaydiyya, the small oasis known as “Lawrence’s Spring” and the narrow siq (gorge) of Khazali Canyon.
Other noteworthy attractions include the Nabataean inscriptions and petroglyphs of Anfaishiyya, the natural rock bridge of Jebel Umm Fruth and the various “sunset sites”, which are all ideal places to witness the changing afternoon colours of the desert rocks.
Many of the best trips offer a combination of jeep travel and hiking. The 5-km (3-mile) stroll through the towering walls of Barrah Canyon is a favourite option. Some hikes require a guide, such as the excellent hour-long scramble up to the Jebel Burdah rock bridge and the exciting half-day hike through labyrinthine Rakhabat Canyon.
Most trips require jeep transport to get you to the start of the hike. The only walk you can really do by yourself is from the visitor centre east to Makharas Canyon and back; take a guide if you are unsure of your route-finding skills.
An excellent alternative to making arrangements on the spot is to arrange a more active itinerary in advance with one of Wadi Rum’s excellent Bedouin guides. Most can arrange jeep and overnight trips but you’ll need a specialist for climbing or canyoning. Overnight trips that combine a jeep excursion, camel ride and some rock scrambling are very popular.
Camel trekking is fun but the pace is slow and can be highly uncomfortable after a couple of hours. Still, it is un-deniably the best way to get a feel for the desert in classic “Lawrence” fashion. The three- day ride from Wadi Rum south to Aqaba is a challenging adventure.
Horse riding is possible on the periphery of the park, as is mountain biking over the desert flats.
It is well worth fitting in an overnight at a Bedouin camp during your visit. The larger fixed camps can be touristy but are fun nonetheless. The smaller ones shift location regularly and offer a more authentic, but also more basic, experience. The food is generally excellent; you may get to try mensaf (a Bedouin dish of lamb and rice) or, if you are lucky, a “Bedouin barbeque” – meat slow-cooked in a desert oven called a zerb . Reclining by an open fire, gazing at the stars and sipping a mint tea in the stillness of the desert is perhaps the quintessential Wadi Rum experience.
