It is necessary to have an international driving licence to drive in India. If not, the Automobile Association of India (AAI)  has several branches across the country that will issue a temporary license, provided you have a passport and an ordinary driving licence. This may take a day or two. You must be over 25 years old and there is a refundable insurance deposit of Rs10,000. You may be asked to take a driving test.

India has a network of over 3,000,000 km (1,860,000 miles) of roads. The primary arterial roads, the national highways, cover 52,000 km (32,240 miles) and carry 45 per cent of the country’s total traffic. State highways run a total length of 128,600 km (79,732 miles). The National Highway Authority of India is in the process of improving links between the country’s four major cities: Delhi, Mumbai, Chennai and Kolkata.

The countryside is crisscrossed with numerous major and minor roads of very variable quality. Some village roads are little more than dirt tracks riddled with potholes, so be prepared for a dusty, bumpy ride.

Most highways and major roads are well-equipped with tourist facilities such as motels, petrol pumps and STD/ISD telephone booths. Midway refreshment points and dhabas  are well-marked with hoardings, and provide clean food as well as toilets.

Several reputed car rental companies, such as Avis, Budget, International Travel House Limited  and Autoriders International Limited  now operate in India. They offer both chauffeur-driven and self-driven cars, which can be hired at travel desks in larger hotels, tourist offices, travel agencies or directly from the companies themselves. Most of them operate through collaborations with local companies. Avis is in partnership with the Oberoi Group while Budget operates through Sapna Travel Agency. Autoriders International Limited, a reliable Indian company, was earlier a partner of Hertz. Local hire services and private taxis are also available in cities from taxi stands and agencies. These can usually be arranged by your hotel or through a reliable local travel agent.

Indian road and traffic conditions can be a trial for anyone unused to these conditions. Hiring a driver is much the safest option, and not all that expensive. All taxis as well as agency-hired cars are distinguished by their yellow number plates with black lettering. Most taxi stands also have private cars for hire, which are usually white with yellow number plates. All car rental companies with “All India Tourist Permits” have licenses for interstate travel.

All drivers are familiar with Indian traffic rules, but insist on getting a driver who knows the area that you plan to visit. Also, do test both the driver and the car before embarking on a long journey.

Chauffeur-driven cars for long-distance travel usually charge per kilometre, with a minimum of 250 km (155 miles) per day plus additional charges per extra kilometre. If you are travelling only one way, additional charges will be levied for the return journey on the assumption that the car will return empty. Costs are also dependent on the car model and the region of hire, with air-conditioned cars being the most expensive. For travelling outside the state or city boundaries, extra charges as well as interstate taxes are added. If the driver has to stay overnight, you will have to pay for his board and lodging, so it is best to negotiate a flat rate in advance. Car hire is more expensive in hill regions.

In certain areas, shared taxis are available for long journeys, which are cheaper. Certain companies require foreign nationals to pay in foreign currency, though most accept payment in rupees as well.

Highways and main roads have well-maintained filling stations (or petrol pumps as they are called) at regular intervals, usually closer to towns. Many pumps in cities as well as on highways are open 24 hours, and carry both leaded and unleaded petrol, as well as diesel, which is cheaper. Most cars run on petrol, though some of the newer models also use diesel, as do most taxis. Unleaded petrol is not available everywhere, especially in remote areas, so ensure that your fuel tank is full when visiting these areas. Many petrol pumps in the main cities are now equipped with utility stores where mineral water, soft drinks, magazines and snacks are sold. Often they also have telephone booths and toilets.

Since 2001, most taxis, auto-rickshaws and buses in Delhi and Mumbai are being run on CNG (Compressed Natural Gas), in an effort to tackle the severe air pollution caused by vehicular emissions.

The Automobile Association of India, the Survey of India and the State Tourism offices provide good maps, brochures and information on all cities and regions in India. However, the placement of road signs is often erratic, and at times they are in the regional language rather than English. It is fine to stop and ask for directions, repeatedly if necessary – people are always happy to help.

If you plan to drive in India, you need to ensure that you are well accustomed to the chaotic traffic conditions. Though there are established traffic rules, such as lane driving and discreet use of high-beam lights, more often than not these are not followed. Vehicles drive on the left-hand side of the road, but often, you will find a stray car – or cow, for that matter – coming at you on the wrong side of the road.

On the highways, beware of trucks, who often use muscle power to force you off the road while overtaking. As a rule, stay clear of buses and trucks.

Few drivers adhere to the rules for overtaking, which is meant to be from the right. Many vehicles often overtake from the left, with no prior warning. Avoid night driving on highways unless absolutely necessary, as a lot of heavy traffic (especially trucks) use them then. Also, never offer lifts to strangers, as this could prove to be very dangerous. It is wise to make liberal use of your horn. If you are unlucky enough to be caught speeding, or jumping a red light, a fine is payable on the spot.

In cities, ensure that your car is parked only in an authorized parking area, otherwise it may be towed away to the nearest police station, and released only on the payment of a heavy fine. Parking attendants should hand you a parking slip, with the parking charges printed on it. Charges are usually between Rs5 and Rs10.