The traditional greeting in India is the namaskar  or namaste  (pronounced “namastay”) when meeting or parting. The palms are pressed together, raised towards the face, and the head is bent slightly forward. Greetings and gestures vary somewhat according to religion or regional group. Muslims raise their right hand towards the forehead with the words adaab  or salaam aleikum  (to which you reply walekum salaam ). The Western handshake is also widely used, though more conservative women still prefer to greet visitors with a namaskar .

The suffix “ ji ” after someone’s name is a mark of respect. Using first names only can be taken as overly familiar, so it’s best to address new acquaintances as Mr, Miss or Mrs, or simply “ ji ”.

Older people, particularly grandparents, are treated with great respect, and younger relatives often greet them by touching their feet. Your host will not expect you to do the same, but a courteous greeting in any form is important.

Indians will think nothing of asking you apparently very personal questions within minutes of first meeting you, so don’t take offence if a relative stranger asks you how much you earn or whether you are married. Such questions are seen as nothing more than taking a normal friendly interest in a new acquaintance.

The feet are considered to be the lowliest part of the body, and shoes are treated as unclean. People will usually take their shoes off before entering a house. Putting your feet up on the furniture is considered bad manners, as is touching someone inadvertently with your feet. If you are sitting on the floor, as is often the case, try to keep your feet tucked underneath rather than stretched out, and avoid stepping over people.

The head, on the other hand, is thought to be a person’s spiritual centre. An older person may bless someone younger by touching his or her head.

Living in close quarters with family and neighbours gives Indians a different sense of “personal space” than many Westerners are used to. If you find yourself crowded or jostled, particularly while travelling, be as tolerant as you can, since space is often at a premium. You should also be aware that public displays of affection between couples is frowned on in Indian society.

Indians tend to dress conservatively and keep the body well covered. In small towns, most women wear saris or salwar-kameez . In cities, jeans, skirts, and t-shirts are common, particularly among the younger generation. However, men do tend to stare at skimpily-clad women, so try to avoid short skirts, halter-neck tops, or anything that might attract unwanted attention.

It is best to dress formally when visiting Indian homes. In fact, wearing an Indian outfit for the occasion will probably delight your hosts. Inexpensive, ready-made Indian clothes for men and women are widely available.

It is acceptable for men to go shirtless on the beach. Nude sunbathing is never allowed, and women are advised to wear full swimsuits, or sarongs over their bikinis. If you are going out for the evening, remember that most nightclubs have a dress code, and you may not get in if you are wearing shorts or sneakers.

Whether you are visiting a Hindu temple, Buddhist monastery, Islamic mosque or Sikh gurdwara, make sure that you behave and dress appropriately. You should, for example, always ask permission to take photographs. Women should wear dresses that cover the upper arms, and are at least mid-calf length, and take a scarf along to cover their head. It is acceptable for women to wear long trousers. Men should avoid shorts and may be asked to cover their heads with a handkerchief or scarf (rather than a hat).

Jain temples have strict rules, and will not allow leather items, even wallets or watch straps, inside. In some South Indian temples, men are expected to remove their shirts and wear a dhoti  instead of trousers. These are often provided at the temple entrance. At most places of worship, shoes are taken off at the door, and you should sit with your feet facing away from the main shrine. In a temple or monastery, walk around in a clockwise direction. You may be offered prasad  (sacred food) in most temples and gurdwaras, which must be taken only in the right hand. The segregation of men and women is common.

In Hindu temples, it is usual for devotees and visitors to offer flowers and incense. Do not sit on or lean against temple walls or shrines. Even those in ruins, as well as simple roadside graves are considered holy. Some Hindu temples, (especially in Kerala and a few in Orissa) are out of bounds for non-Hindus. If you are barred from entering, do not take offence. Avoid entering a mosque during Friday prayers, and men should stay away from the women’s enclosure.

Bargaining is a way of life in India. Exchanges can be heated, but it is not necessary to be aggressive. Firmly state what you would like to pay and walk away if the shopkeeper does not agree. If you are buying in bulk, you may ask for an extra discount. The prices in larger shops and government emporia are usually fixed.

Eating with your fingers can take a bit of getting used to, but it is the best way to enjoy traditional Indian food. If in doubt about how to eat a particular dish, don’t be embarrassed to ask. It is considered impolite to use your left hand for eating. Sitting on the floor for meals is common and, in the south, banana leaves are often used instead of plates.

There are no norms for tipping, or baksheesh , as it is called. Porters and doormen at hotels are usually happy with a 5 or 10 rupee tip. In restaurants, check the bill before you decide on the tip, since the larger ones usually include a service charge. If not, ten per cent of the total amount is usually fine. Tipping taxi or auto-rickshaw drivers is optional, and not generally expected. If you hire a car with a driver, however, you are expected to give him a baksheesh . The same goes for hairdressers, masseurs or anyone offering you a personal service.

Although smoking in public places is officially banned in some states (such as Delhi and Kerala), this rule is widely flouted. Smoking is banned on domestic flights, and in some hotels, restaurants and offices. Smoking or drinking within the precincts of a temple, gurdwara or mosque is strictly taboo, and in Amritsar, no smoking is permitted within the city limits.

Alcohol is available all over India, though the state of Gujarat is “dry”, as are some religious sites and temple towns, such as Haridwar, Rishikesh and Pushkar. In addition, there are certain designated “dry days” all over the country, such as Mahatma Gandhi’s birthday (2 October) and Independence Day (15 August). Only some restaurants are licensed to serve alcohol, and you are not allowed to drink alcohol in parks, buses or trains.

As a foreign visitor in India, you will get more than your share of harassment from beggars at city traffic lights, markets and outside places of worship. Beggars can be extremely persistent. Although it’s very difficult to refuse, visitors who give money to one, will soon find themselves surrounded by a throng. Be especially careful of being pickpocketed in the confusion. The best strategy is to ignore them, and walk on until they leave you alone. If necessary, complain to a nearby policeman. If you do wish to help monetarily, the staff at your hotel will be able to suggest deserving charities to whom donations can be made.