MAMALLAPURAM

  • Kanchipuram district. 58 km (36 miles) S of Chennai.
  • Covelong Rd, Tel: (04114) 242 232 .

  • daily.

  • Dance Festival (Jan/Feb).

The UNESCO World Heritage Site of Mamallapuram (or Mahabalipuram) was once a major port-city, built in the 7th century by the Pallava king, Narasimha Varman I, also known as Mamalla, the “Great Wrestler”. This spectacular site, situated on the Bay of Bengal, extends across a boulder-strewn landscape and comprises rock-cut caves and monolithic shrines, structural temples and huge bas-reliefs that are considered the greatest examples of Pallava art. The stone-carving tradition that created these wonders is still alive in the many workshops scattered around the village.

The spectacular Shore Temple , perched dramatically on a promontory by the sea, has survived the ravages of time and erosion. It was built by Mamalla for Vishnu, while the two Shiva shrines were added by Mamalla’s successor Narasimha Varman II. The temple has a low boundary wall, with rows of seated Nandis surrounding it. Placed inside are a reclining Vishnu, a 16-faceted polished linga and reliefs of Somaskanda – a composite form of Shiva with his consort, Parvati and sons, Skanda and Ganesha.

Inland from the Shore Temple, in the village centre, is the celebrated bas-relief Bhagiratha’s Penance , also known as Arjuna’s Penance or the Descent of the Ganges. Carved on an immense rock with a natural vertical cleft, symbolizing the Ganges, the panel depicts in great detail the story of the sacred river’s descent from the sky. This divine act, made possible by the penance of the sage Bhagiratha, is witnessed on the panel by celestial and semi-celestial beings, ascetics, and animals. The symbolism is best understood during the monsoon, when rainwater flows down the cleft and collects in the tank below. Nearby are the unfinished Panch Pandava Cave Temple , and Krishna’s Butter Ball , a natural boulder perched precariously on a slope.

South of Bhagiratha’s Penance is the Krishna Mandapa , a huge bas-relief showing the god lifting Mount Govardhan to protect the people from torrential rains, as well as performing his tasks as a cowherd. The Olakkanatha Temple , above the mandapa , was once used as a lighthouse.

On the ridge southwest of Bhagiratha’s Penance are three cave temples. The Mahishasuramardini Cave Temple  has a graceful portrayal of Goddess Durga on her lion mount, subduing the buffalo-headed demon, Mahisha, on the northern wall. This panel seems to emanate life and motion, in contrast to the one on the southern wall, where Vishnu reclines in deep meditation before creating the earth.

Nearby, the Adivaraha Cave Temple  has interesting panels of Pallava rulers with their consorts. The Lion Throne, on top of a hill further west, is a raised platform with a seated lion, discovered near the piles of brick rubble thought to be the remains of the palace of the Pallavas.

The Trimurti Cave Temple , northwest of Bhagiratha’s Penance, is dedicated to three gods – Shiva, Vishnu and Somaskanda. The shrines are guarded by statues of graceful doorkeepers. A sculpture of Durga standing on Mahisha’s head is on an outer wall. To its south, the Varaha Cave Temple  has beautifully moulded lion pillars, while the relief sculptures of Lakshmi, Durga and Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu, are among the masterpieces of Pallava art. The two-storeyed, rectangular Ganesha Ratha , further south, is attributed to Parameshvara Varman I (r.669–90). The temple, originally dedicated to Shiva, has beautifully carved inscriptions listing the royal titles of Parameshvara Varman.

A small Archaeological Museum , with sculptures and fragments excavated from the site, lies to its east.



Krishna’s Butter Ball, a natural boulder


ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

 



  • West Raja St.
  • daily.

SHORE TEMPLE
  • also covers Panch Rathas.


ENVIRONS

The Tiger’s Cave , 4 km (2.5 miles) north, is a shallow cave framed by a large boulder, with heads of yalis  (mythical leonine beasts). It was probably a stage for outdoor performances.

The Vedagirisvara Temple, dedicated to Shiva, at the top of a hill in the village of Thirukkazhukunran , 17 km (11 miles) west, is famous for the two eagles that swoop down at noon to be fed by the temple priests. According to legend, these birds are saints who fly from Varanasi to Rameshvaram, stopping here to rest.

PANCH RATHAS

This 7th-century complex of monolithic rock-cut shrines called the Panch (five) Rathas (processional temple chariots) is named after the five Pandava brothers, heroes of the epic Mahabharata , and their queen Draupadi. Although unfinished, these impressive temples are a tribute to the genius of the stone-cutters who carved these large boulders in situ . In an ambitious experiment, the styles and techniques of wooden architecture were imitated in stone, to create a variety of forms that later came to influence South Indian temple design.

  • 1.5 km (1 mile) S of Mamallapuram village.
  • daily.

  • Tamil Nadu Tourism, Covelong Rd, Tel: (04114) 242 232 .



Nakul Sahdeva Ratha

Named jointly after the Pandava twins, this ratha  is unique for its apsidal form, known in architectural terms as gajaprishta  (back of an elephant). As if to emphasize this, a perfectly sculpted elephant, carved from a single stone, stands next to it.