SANCHI

  • Raisen district. 46 km (29 miles) NE of Bhopal.
  • Traveller’s Lodge, Tel: (07482) 26 6723. 

  • Chaityagiri Vihara Festival (Nov).

The tranquil hill of Sanchi contains one of India’s best preserved and most extensive Buddhist sites. From the 3rd century BC to the 7th century AD, this was a thriving Buddhist establishment of stupas and monasteries. The complex of buildings at Sanchi therefore show the development of Buddhist art across different periods, stretching over more than a 1,000 years.

Founded by Emperor Ashoka whose wife came from nearby Vidisha, Sanchi grew and prospered under subsequent dynasties, largely through the generous patronage of the rich merchants of Vidisha. By the 14th century, Buddhism was on the wane in India and Sanchi was deserted and half forgotten, until it was “rediscovered“ in 1818 by General Taylor of the Bengal Cavalry. Between 1912 and 1919 it was extensively restored by the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI) under Sir John Marshall. It was declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 1989. Most of Sanchi’s buildings are within an enclosure at the top of the 91-m (299-ft) hill, dominated by the Great Stupa and its four superb gateways. Nearby, to its north, is the smaller Stupa 3  (built 2nd century BC), with its single gateway, which contained the relics of two of the Buddha’s closest disciples, Sariputra and Maudgalayana.

Also within the enclosure are several monasteries, which are located on the eastern, western and southern sides. Of these the 10th-century Monastery 51  is the most interesting, with its courtyard surrounded by a colonnade, behind which are 22 monks’ cells. Temple 17 , on the eastern side, dates to the 5th century AD. A flat-roofed structure with columns surmounted by double-headed lions, this is the earliest well-preserved example of an Indian stone temple, and its style and features considerably influenced the later development of temple architecture.

Located below the Great Stupa, just outside the enclosure, is Stupa 2  (2nd century BC), whose railings are carved with lotus medallions and mythical beasts. Also depicted is a horse with stirrups. Near the South Gateway of the Great Stupa lies the broken shaft of an Ashokan Pillar, made of highly polished stone. It was used as a sugarcane press by a local landlord in the 19th century. Its four-headed lion capital, similar to the one at Sarnath but not as fine, can now be seen in the Sanchi Archaeological Museum . Some other notable exhibits here include a pair of winged Mauryan lions, sculptural friezes from the gateways and statues of the Buddha and Bodhisattvas.

ENVIRONS

Besnagar , situated 10 km (6 miles) northeast of Sanchi, on the confluence of the Beas and Betwa rivers, was once a prosperous centre of trade. A unique relic of its past is the Heliodorus Column , with its fluted bell-shaped capital, dating to 113 BC. Dedicated to the god Vasudeva, it was erected by the envoy of the Greek king of Taxila (now in Pakistan), to commemorate his conversion to Hinduism.

Udayagiri , 20 km (12 miles) north of Sanchi, has fine examples of 5th-century AD rock-cut caves, carved into the hillside. Most notable is Cave 5 , with its impressive sculpture of Varaha, the incarnation of Vishnu as a boar, rescuing the earth goddess from the churning ocean.

Raisen Fort  straddles a hill-top 23 km (14 miles) southeast of Sanchi. Its 13th-century gates, palaces, temples and pavilions have lain in ruins ever since a devastating attack in the 16th century by the Sultan of Gujarat, but the site is still hauntingly atmospheric.

Udayapur , 70 km (42 miles) northeast of Sanchi, has the exquisite 11th-century red sandstone Nilkanteshwar Temple , dedicated to Shiva. It is comparable in scale and sculptural beauty to the Khajuraho temples. The symmetry of its graceful shikhara , rising in a crescendo of delicately carved stone, is broken by a curious figure that seems to dangle in space. According to local legend, this figure represents the architect, trying to climb to the heavens.



Stupa No. 1 at Sanchi

THE GREAT STUPA

India’s finest surviving Buddhist monument and World Heritage Site, the Great Stupa at Sanchi, was built in the 2nd century BC. Its hemispherical shape is variously believed to symbolize the upturned alms bowl of a Buddhist monk, or an umbrella of protection for followers of the Buddhist dharma. The stupa’s main glory lies in its four stone toranas  (gateways), added in the 1st century BC. Their sculptures replicate the techniques of wood and ivory carving, and cover a rich variety of Buddhist themes.

  • daily.

ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM

  • Tel: (07482) 26 6611 .

  • Fri. In acccordance with Buddhist tradition, walk around the stupa in a clockwise direction.



Architectual detail of a toranas , Great Stupa.