ARCHAEOLOGICAL MUSEUM
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Sat–Thu.
- Tel: (07686) 27 2320.
KHAJURAHO: KANDARIYA MAHADEV TEMPLE
The magnificent group of temples at Khajuraho, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, were built between the 9th and 10th centuries by the Chandela dynasty which dominated Central India at that time. The most impressive of the temples is the Kandariya Mahadev, which represents the pinnacle of North Indian temple art and architecture. It is remarkable for its grand dimensions, its complex yet perfectly harmonious composition, and its exquisite sculptural embellishment. Over 800 sculptures cover the temple, depicting gods and goddesses, beasts and warriors, sensuous maidens, dancers, musicians and, of course, the erotic scenes for which the Khajuraho temples are famous.
- Chhatarpur district 275 kms (171 miles) SE of Gwalior.
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5 km (3 miles) S of temples.
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MP Tourism, Chandela Cultural Centre Tel: (07686) 27 4051.
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Aug–Sep.
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Dance Festival (Feb-Mar).
SON ET LUMIÈRE
- 7.30pm daily.
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Khajuraho temple
Erotic Panels
The largest erotic panels are on the northern and southern facades, between the balconies. The erotic sculptures are variously believed to celebrate the marriage of Shiva and Parvati, serve as a love manual, or simply express an exuberant celebration of life and creation.
EXPLORING KHAJURAHO
The 25 temples at Khajuraho represent the brilliant burst of artistic flowering that took place under the generous patronage of the powerful Chandela rulers, who made Khajuraho their peacetime capital. The remoteness of the temples’ location saved them from the ravages of Islamic raiders, but also led to their being abandoned after the decline of the Chandelas in the 13th century. Hidden in a dense forest for 700 years, they were “rediscovered” in 1838 by Captain TS Burt of the Bengal Engineers. According to local tradition there were originally 85 temples, and ongoing excavations have unearthed extensive ruins in the area.
The Khajuraho temples are divided into three groups. The most important are in the Western Group which, apart from the Kandariya Mahadev, includes the Lakshman and the Vishwanath Temples . Both are similar to the Kandariya Mahadev in composition, sculptural embellishments and themes, but they also have outstanding individual features.
The superb ceiling of the entrance porch and the female bracket figures inside the Lakshman Temple (built in AD 930) are worth special notice. The pair of street singers on the south façade are also remarkable, with their expressions of intense absorption. The master architect and his apprentices are exquisitely sculpted on the subsidiary shrine in the temple’s eastern corner.
Opposite the Lakshman Temple is a pavilion with a magnificent statue of Varaha, the boar incarnation of Vishnu, covered with carvings of several deities.
In the Vishwanath Temple, dating to AD 1002, the apsara plucking a thorn from her foot (on the south façade) is outstanding, as is the apsara playing the flute, which can be seen in the interior chamber.
The Matangeshwar Temple (built AD 900), with its plain circular interior, is the only one still in everyday use.
The Archaeological Museum , near the entrance to the Western Group, has a fine collection of sculptures found in the area, including a dancing Ganesha, and a fascinating frieze showing the construction of the Khajuraho temples, with scenes of stone being cut and transported.
A short distance away is the Eastern Group of temples. The Jain Parsvanatha Temple , built in AD 950, is the most remarkable, for the intricately carved ceiling pendants in its entrance porch. Three exquisite sculptures here show apsaras applying kohl around their eyes, painting their feet (both on the south façade), and fastening ankle bells (on the north façade).
The last phase of temple-building in Khajuraho is seen in the Southern Group . The Chaturbhuj Temple (built AD 1090) has a superb, four-armed image of Shiva in the inner sanctum. It is the only major temple in Khajuraho without any erotic sculptures.
ENVIRONS
Raneh Falls , 17 km (11 miles) south of the town of Khajuraho, provide a cool retreat. The 19th-century Rajagarh Palace , 25 km (16 miles) southeast of Khajuraho, is in the same Bundela style as the palaces at Datia and Orchha. Situated 32 km (20 miles) southeast of Khajuraho, along the Ken river, the Panna National Park , has herds of deer, leopards, crocodiles and the scenic Pandav Falls. A favourite spot for tourists in the park is Gille’s Tree House restaurant, perched 20 m (66 ft) above the ground.
