TRAVELLING IN EGYPT

Flying within Egypt entails flying with EgyptAir as the company has a monopoly on air travel within the country. Air Sinai is part of the same company and was formed to serve Israel and the Sinai, thus protecting the mother carrier from losing its landing rights in other Arab countries. EgyptAir operates frequent daily flights between Cairo, Luxor, Hurghada and Aswan, and a slightly reduced service to Alexandria. All domestic flights leave from Terminal 1, the Old Airport, in Cairo. There are several flights a day between Aswan and Abu Simbel. Air Sinai offers daily flights between Cairo, Luxor, Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh and St Catherine’s Monastery.

Fares are average by international standards and are calculated in US dollars. It is possible to pay in Egyptian pounds, backed up by an exchange receipt. Reservations should be made as far in advance as possible, especially during winter or if travelling at the time of important Muslim festivals such as Eid al-Adha and Eid al-Fitr. Overbooking is common on EgyptAir and Air Sinai: always confirm your flight reservation and make a note of the confirmation reference number. Delays are also common. It is a good idea to have something to read or to otherwise fill the time you may spend waiting. The baggage allowance for domestic flights is 20 kg (44 lb), but this rule is often flouted, especially with regard to hand luggage. It is important to arrive at the airport at least one hour before domestic flights and two hours before international flights.

Trains are the best option for long trips between major cities, offering a much more pleasant alternative to buses and taxis. For short journeys, however, trains tend to be slower and less reliable. Trains in Egypt fall into two categories: air-conditioned (A/C), which includes the more luxurious sleeping trains, and non-A/C, or local stopping trains. A/C trains usually offer first-and second-class cars. First-class cars are less crowded and the seats are more comfortable. Second-class travel is not significantly worse and costs quite a bit less. Seats can be reserved up to a week in advance and it is best to book for the return journey at the same time. There are 16 A/C trains a day between Cairo and Alexandria and five daily between Cairo and Luxor and Aswan. Two overnight express trains run between Cairo and Luxor and Aswan.

Sleeping trains provide a fast, comfortable, but expensive overnight service between Cairo and Luxor and Aswan. Carpeted compartments have two bunks and a washbasin. There is a lounge car, and breakfast and dinner are served in the compartments. The meals are included in the price. ABELA, the company that operates the sleeping trains, has ticket offices at both Ramses and Giza railway stations. Tickets should be booked well in advance.

Non-A/C trains have only second-and third-class seats, the latter with open doors and windows for ventilation. Both classes are very dirty and crowded and cannot be used by foreign travellers.

There are three main bus operators in Egypt. The Upper Egypt Bus Company operates services to the Nile Valley, Al-Fayoum, the Western Desert oases and towns along the Red Sea Coast down to Quesir. It also runs a luxury bus service every evening to Luxor and to Aswan. The East Delta Bus Company covers services to the Sinai beach towns of Sharm el-Sheikh, Dahab, Nuweiba and Taba, as well as to St Catherine’s Monastery and the Suez Canal towns of Port Said, Ismailia and Suez. Alexandria, Marsa Matruh, Siwa Oasis and the Delta towns are served by the West Delta Bus Company. Travellers have a choice between air-conditioned (A/C) buses, which are usually newer, and non-A/C vehicles which are generally in worse shape and can take much longer to arrive at their destination. Be aware that just because a bus is advertised as having air-conditioning does not mean that it will actually work; nor will passengers necessarily obey the “no smoking” signs.

The Arab Union Transport Company operates the super-comfortable Superjet and Golden Arrow buses along the main Cairo to Alexandria, Luxor, Hurghada, Sharm el-Sheikh and Aswan routes. Superjet buses also serve Port Said with around nine trips a day. The buses are air-conditioned, with toilets, videos and hostesses offering highly priced snacks.

All long-distance buses from Cairo now depart from the new Cairo Gateway bus terminal behind Ramses train station. In Alexandria, Port Said and Ismailia several different terminals are used. Bus schedules, usually posted in Arabic, are erratic and change frequently so it is advisable to ask travel agencies, hotels and tourist offices to help check the departure times. Tickets are sold from small kiosks at city terminals, up to 24 hours in advance for A/C and long-haul services. In smaller towns, tickets may only be available an hour or so before departure. Prices vary with the type of service and time of travel. For popular trips, book as early as possible to be sure of a seat and to catch the bus at the main departure terminal.