The coastline east of Port Antonio is one of the most beautiful in the country. Watered by frequent rain showers that bounce off the Blue Mountains, the jungle-like tangle of ferns, flowers, and palms cascade down the inland side of the coast road. The turquoise waters offshore are spectacular, with the odd palm-covered island just adding to the perfection. Local hoteliers have long tried to capitalize on the Portland area’s natural attractions by developing it as a tourist resort. However, the lack of decent roads means it is still relatively unspoilt, with just a couple of hotels, including the turreted Trident Castle, and a sprinkling of beautiful guesthouses.

Just a short distance from Port Antonio, a weather-beaten sign marks the entrance to Frenchman’s Cove, easily the most beautiful of Jamaica’s beaches, a perfect horseshoe of sand enclosed by jungle-clad hills and with a refreshingly cool, sandy-floored river running into the bay.

A short way farther east along the main road, past the sadly dilapidated San San Beach, signposts indicate the turnoff for the Blue Lagoon. At this almost circular pool of unknown depth, chilly springwater mixes with the warm seawater to amazing effect, making the pretty lagoon an unforgettable place to swim. The location was also made famous by the 1980 movie, The Blue Lagoon , starring Brooke Shields and Christopher Atkins. The lagoon is slated for redevelopment, with plans for a luxury spa on the banks, but for the time being it is open to all. Visitors are, however, advised to be wary of the local “guides” who may ask for non-existent entrance fees.