In direct contrast to the glitz and concrete of the north coast, the string of peaceful fishing villages that make up the relaxed and laid-back Treasure Beach offer a more authentic island experience than the resorts. Tourism has developed sustainably here, with the community getting tangible benefits from the industry, both by being directly involved – most of the hotels and restaurants are owned by locals – and by way of initiatives such as the BREDS foundation. A non-profit making organization funded largely by visitor donations, BREDS has, among many other things, created an emergency medical response unit for the community and purchased an ambulance. They have also equipped schools with computers and fishermen with much-needed radios.

Beautifully situated between the sea and the arid flatlands that spread out below the Santa Cruz Mountains, Calabash Bay is the heart of the community. Here, the very hip Jake’s hotel provides a focus for most of the activities, with a smattering of places to eat and stay close by. To the north, Frenchman’s Bay offers great opportunities for swimming and bodysurfing. The scenic beach is ideal for sunbathing too. This place is home to more accommodations, and eating, and drinking options. South of Calabash and Frenchman’s bays; and separated from them by pastureland and the Great Pedro Pond, is Great Bay, with another fine beach and a thriving fishing industry. Though the sand here is brown rather than white, the waters are clear and extremely clean, and the odd wave makes a refreshing change to the millpond-like northern shore.

It is easy to while away an entire holiday dividing time between the beaches, but it is well worth arranging for a boat trip along the coast to the unique Floyd’s Pelican Bar . Built on stilts stuck into a sandpit offshore of Parrottee Point near Black River, this ramshackle wooden, thatch-roofed bar is a one-of-a-kind experience. Guests can paddle around the shallows, snorkel in the surrounding waters, or just sit in the bar and have a meal or a beer, enjoying the sunset, which is especially atmospheric here.